Resort height: 1800m
The mountains
Pila is home to only 70km of pistes, which is rather small by modern standards. But what it lacks in quantity it makes up for in quality: several of the intermediate ski runs here are classics, especially 'Red 2' and 'Red 3' at the eastern end of the ski area. Even during snow droughts, the Pila resort authorities manage to keep them in good condition, and they're usually quiet enough to allow you to lean into your edges and carve great big arcs across their surface.
Getting there
Turin airport is a 90-minute drive form Pila. You can also take the train from the airport into Aosta, and then the gondola up into the resort, but it's a slow journey.
Rating:
4/10
Après-ski
Pila is very, very quiet after the lifts shut. The bar at the Lion Noir is a cheerful and atmospheric spot to celebrate a good day's skiing, and if you feel like making an evening of it, you should move on to Gallagher's Irish pub, followed by La Niche for some dancing. Friday and Saturday nights are your best chance of meeting like-minded spirits. For dinner in Pila, Les Fleurs is the restaurant of choice.
Rating:
4/10
Non-skiers
Tobogganing and snow-shoeing are on offer in Pila, but most non-skiers will be happiest riding the lift down into Aosta, a characterful and historic place ringed by Roman walls, and not a bit like your average Alpine town.
Rating:
9/10
Cost of living
Pila is dirt cheap - especially if you come in the middle of the week for a short holiday. It's worth spending some of the money you've saved on some private ski tuition, as well, which is about half the price of the A-list resorts in France or Switzerland.
Rating:
5/10
Attractiveness of the resort
The views across the valley towards the Matterhorn and Monte Rosa will often bring you screeching to halt, to stare in wonder. But the purpose-built resort of Pila itself is the opposite of chocolate-box, and many of the buildings are beginning to show their age.