Resort height: 1800m
The mountains
Back in 2003, Les Arcs joined forces with its neighbour La Plagne to create Paradiski. Hailed as the next big thing in skiing, it offers a dazzling 425km of pistes, and an equally impressive offering of hard-core off-piste ski terrain to boot. Last year, however, the concept suffered a set back when the Vanoise Express, the enormous double-decker cable car which connects the two resorts, was suddenly withdrawn because of worries about the cables. These have now been replaced, and the link will be working again in winter 2008-9.
But despite the repairs, doubts about Paradiski remain. This isn't a truly integrated mega-resort, but two mid-sized ski areas joined at their furthest extremity by a single lift. It's a real schlep to get over there from some of the more far-flung villages, and once you make the crossing, you're confronted by old and slow ski lifts to take you up into La Plagne.
As a result, skiers and snowboarders staying in Les Arcs shouldn't set their hearts on spending too much time in La Plagne, and vice versa. That won't matter much to Les-Arcs based intermediates, however, because when it comes to broad, flattering pistes, Les Arcs has got the lot: broad cruisey blues set between the trees; flat easy greens for anyone who needs to build their confidence; and one enormous high-altitude descent, from the summit of the Aiguille Rouge (at 3225m, all the way down to Villaroger, 2000m below).
One group which might be happier staying over in La Plagne are the experts. There are plenty of challenges in Les Arcs - thanks to the lively freestyle scene in the Apocalypse terrain park, and some top-notch powder skiing (in the right conditions) off the back of the Aiguille Rouge. But the really tough stuff lies over in La Plagne, on the north face of the Bellecote - site of some of the most hair-raising descents in the Alps.
Getting there
Geneva, Grenoble, Lyon and Chambery airports are all less than three hours away, and you can take a Eurostar train straight from London St Pancras to Bourg St Maurice, in the valley below Les Arcs, twice a week. Normal French rail services are pretty good too - and of course you can always drive yourself if the budget's tight.
Rating:
6/10
Après-ski
This isn't one of the greats. Accommodation in Les Arcs is split into five main villages - Arc 2000, Arc 1950, Arc 1800, Arc 1600 and Vallandry, and there aren't quite enough people in any of them to give the place a real fizz. The liveliest nightlife is to be found in Arc 1800, courtesy of Tantra and the Red Hot Saloon, and above Peisey-Vallandry, courtesy of the Brit-friendly Flying squirrel.
The restaurant scene in Les Arcs is a little underpowered for the same reason: All things considered, Arc 1800 is the best place for gastronomes, and Casa Mia, one of the best restaurants. Arc 1950 isn't bad, either - try Chez Anne (which specialises in the local and distinctly cheesy cuisine) and Le Table des Lys.
Rating:
3/10
Non-skiers
The fractured nature of Les Arcs really works against the non-skier. In any of the villages the shopping would detain you for no more than a couple of hours, and the on-mountain activities are limited too.
Rating:
8/10
Cost of living
There are lots and lots of apartments in Les Arcs, and holidays in the smaller and more dated ones can be dirt cheap. Even in Arc 1950, the more modern apartments won't break the bank. Wherever you stay there's always a cheap-eating option too, though you want to do your shopping down in Bourg St Maurice, in the valley below the resort, if you're doing your own cooking - thereby avoiding the overpriced mini-markets.
Rating:
6/10
Attractiveness of the resort
It depends where in Les Arcs you stay. Arc 1950 is head and shoulders above the other villages when it comes to architecture and design. The others are all a bit scrappy and dated, although money has been spent in recent years refreshing some of the facades. The mountain scenery is gorgeous.