Resort height: 1035m
The mountains
It's important not to think of Chamonix as a regular ski resort. It has several separate ski areas attached, but to get between them you need to come back down into the valley and commute. For intermediate skiers especially, this is a frustrating experience, and for that reason Chamonix is not recommended for a week-long ski holiday. Beginners get a pretty raw deal in Chamonix too, spending most of the time on the valley floor, wondering what all the fuss is about.
Experts love Chamonix however, because several of these ski lift systems give access to spectacular off-piste routes. The area known as the Grands Montets, above the satellite village of Argentière is the most famous, and is home to such celebrated ski runs as the Pas de Chèvre, which should only be attempted in the company of guide holding the UIAGM qualification.
For less agile skiers, Chamonix has one big off-piste route worth tackling: the 17km Vallée Blanche run, which starts beneath the summit of the Aiguille du Midi, and follows the Mer de Glace glacier back towards the Chamonix valley. The walk down from the cable-car station is the only really dangerous bit - and in fact that skiing thereafter is pretty flat (too flat, in fact for most snowboarders). A guide is essential: both to supply the kit you'll need for that first walk, and to keep you out of the crevasses once you start skiing.
Getting there
Chamonix is only an hour from Geneva airport, which is served by flights from all over the UK. Driving is pretty straightforward too, and there's also a railway station in town, linking to the SNCF network.
Rating: 
9/10
Après-ski
The adrenaline generated by a good days skiing gives the Chamonix nightlife plenty of zip. Bars such as the Chambre Neuf and the MBC microbrewery are the places to sample it. If it's cocktails you're after, head to the Clubhouse. It's a private-member's club, but in the middle of the week, when it's quieter, you can get in as a non-member to “sample” the atmosphere (and the delicious drinks).
Rating: 
8/10
Non-skiers
The shopping in town isn't bad, and there are some excellent spas (for example at the Hotel Albert Premier). But even for non-skiers, the real attraction of Chamonix is the great outdoors. At the very least, you should ride the cable car to the 3840m Aiguille du Midi to gaze at the majestic views, as well as trying some snow-shoeing, and dog-sledding. Anyone who ever enjoyed jumping into frozen puddles as a child should have a go at ice climbing too. Smashing all those icicles is very therapeutic.
Rating: 9/10
Cost of living
Chamonix can be dirt cheap if you want it to be, offering plenty of budget accommodation, and cheap places to eat and drink too. In fact, one of the most atmospheric mountain restaurants, La Crèmerie du Glacier, near Argentière is a fiver-a-head kind of place. There's also a well-developed luxury scene here too - so everyone, rich or poor, is happy.
Rating: 8/10
Attractiveness of the resort
There's no arguing with the Chamonix scenery - in a word, it's stupendous. The town itself is nothing to write home about - rather scrappy and spoilt, in places, by traffic. If you're looking for something a little more low-key and laid back, think about staying up the valley in Argenitière instead.
